Himalayan
Expedition
KAMET
(7756m)
India's lonely giant
May
5th - June 13th 2005
Second highest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya,
this giant obelisk stands in lordly isolation on the Tibetan border.
When first climbed in 1931 by a British party led by Frank Smythe,
Kamet was the highest peak in the world to be climbed by Man. Since
1962 access to Kamet has been restricted but permits can now be gained
to this border area and we will be one of the first Western teams
to attempt the peak for half a century. Base camp at Vasudhara Tal
is a four day trek from the roadhead. A 10km ascent of the East Kamet
Glacier leads to an advance camp at c.5500m from which the summit
attempts are mounted by the original SE Flank route. Mixed ground
and steep glacier leads to a final camp on the Abi Gamin col at 7138m,
from which the North-East Ridge is climbed on snow and ice to the
top. There will be full high-altitude porter support up to 6300m,
above which Alpine-style tactics will be used.
This historic climb offers a magnificent opportunity to experience
the challenge of high altitude climbing in the remotest Himalaya without
the commercialism and crowds that attend the easier 8000 metre peaks.
Kamet 7756m South-East
Face - click for large version
Route from camp 2 to camp 3 under the cliffs of Abi Gamin - click for large
version
Approaching Meade's Col (7138m) and the summit camp - click for large version
Photo credits: copyright Satya Dam
All members must be fit, self-reliant, experienced in Alpine mountaineering
and have previous ascents to 6000m.
We
are offering this trip with either a Guided or Non-Guided option (see
below).
Outline
Itinerary:
May 5th-6th: Fly to Delhi and complete administrative
formalities
May 7th-10th: Bus journey via Rishikesh and Joshimath to roadhead
at Gamsali (3350m)
May 11th-14th: Acclimatisation and 25km trek to base camp at Vasudhara
lake (4792m)
May 15th-22nd: Training climb to Banke Plateau and Peak 6520m; establishment
of Camps I and II (5600m) on East Kamet Glacier (with full high altitude
porter support).
May 23rd-28th: Route prepared with camps stocked up to Abi Gamin col
at 7138m
May 29th-June 6th: Summit attempts via North-East Ridge
June 7th-10th: Return to base camp and trek out to Gamsali
June 11th-13th: Return journey to Delhi and flight back to UK
Full
itinerary and trip dossier with map available on enquiry
GUIDED
PRICE: £4,650 (with British Guide,
maximum guide:client ratio 3:1)
NON-GUIDED PRICE: £3,750 (with Sherpa support to
summit camp)
Deposit
required: £500
Both prices are inclusive of Flights, Permits and Peak Royalties,
Leadership, Travel and all Ground Services in India. Full personal
insurance cover available for £200 extra.
GUIDED
OPTION: The direct leadership and guiding of highly experienced British
guides is provided at a ratio appropriate to the climbs; for individuals
who want to achieve their dreams in company with a qualified professional.
NON-GUIDED OPTION: For pairs or small groups with suitable experience,
who share our permits, travel and all ground services but can climb
independently on the chosen routes. We use our expertise to handle
all the organisation and you can simply "come to the mountain
and climb".
