HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS

NANDA DEVI EXPLORER

15th MAY - 6th JUNE 2010

Climb, trek and explore in the heart of the Indian Himalaya

This trip is perfectly tailored for mountaineers and adventurous mountain explorers, maximising the potential of a 3 week itinerary to climb and trek in the shadow of 7816m Nanda Devi, centrepiece of the mountains of Garhwal and Kumaon and one of the world's greatest peaks presiding over a magnificent mountain wilderness. Trip level: B. The itinerary offers:

- spectacular trekking through some of India's finest valleys - the Pindar, Lawan and Gori Ganga

- the ascent of 5922m (19,430ft) Bauljuri - a superb trekking peak of PD in diffculty

- the crossing of Traill's Pass (5312m) - one of the most famous and challenging glacier expeditions in the region, to be attempted in lightweight alpine style, which offers a completely independent return trek route down the Gori Ganga valley

- majestic close-up views of Nanda Devi's twin citadels and a visit to Nanda Devi East base camp

- a fascinating cultural encounter and exciting travel from Delhi to the mountain state of Uttarakhand with its thriving resorts, chaotic towns, sacred Hindu temples and peaceful welcoming people

Bauljuri is one of India's best trekking peaks, first ascended in 1944 by Wilfred Noyce. The north ridge ascent involves an interesting glacier climb and final ascent of a tapering ridge to the pin-sharp summit. The ascent is physically challenging but technically straightforward (Alpine PD or Scottish grade I with some grade 2 scrambling). So long as you have some prior training on snow and good fitness the climb is feasible. Bauljuri is climbed on official permits from the Govt and it is highly unlikely that there will be other parties on the same route. So you will enjoy a sense of isolation and adventure that is perhaps lacking on the popular trekking peaks of Nepal. Our groups have ascended Bauljuri twice, in 1993 and 1997, with a 100% success rate and 17 successful climbers.

Traill's Pass is a historic crossing between the Pindar and Lawan valleys, first established under sponsorship of Mr G.W.Traill, the British commissioner of Kumaon, in 1830. Glacial retreat has rendered the Pindari side complex and technical in recent decades. Only six known repeats have been made, the most recent by our own group in 2009. Traill was Britain's first commissioner to Kumaon after subjugation of the ruling Gurkhas. He oversaw the construction of many paths and wanted to link the Pindar and Lawan valleys to make a new trade route from Almora to Tibet, but the terrain was much too diffcult. The difficulty as AD on the Pindari side with snow-ice of 55° in the final gully, and PD on the Lawan flank with snow to 50°. The pass is best crossed south to north so that the technically difficult south side is done in ascent, completely avoiding the Pindari icefall.

For more pictures of the route and the wonderful scenery of this area please go to our NANDA DEVI 2009 Gallery

Dawn over the twin peaks of Nanda Devi from the Lawan valley

Crossing Traill's Pass on our 2009 expedition

Itinerary:

Thurs-Fri-Sat May 13th-14th: Daytime or overnight flights to Delhi; sightseeing tour of Delhi; meet Indian staff, Liaison Officer and complete adminstrative briefing at Indian Mountaineering Foundation; catch overnight sleeper train from Delhi to Kathgodam

Sat-Sun May 15th-16th: Bus journey through foothills of Kumaon; overnight stay at Binsar hill station (2000m) which has superb views of the Nanda Devi ranges; continuing to roadhead at Song (1450m) in Saryu valley; stay at resthouses

Mon-Wed May 17th - 19th: Trek over Dhakuri Pass (2912m) up the Pindari valley to base camp at Martoli (3650m) under the snout of the Pindari Glacier: overnight stays at Dhakuri (2600m) and Dwali (2734m). The Pindar trek is a classic of the Himalaya following a good stone-pitched trail through exquisitely beautiful hill country and forest reserves. The trek is popular with Indian groups and has bungalow resthouses at several points along the route.

Thurs-Fri May 20th - 21st: Rest and acclimatisation with exploratory walks in the upper Pindar valley

Sat-Fri May 22nd - 28th : Ascent of 5922m Bauljuri with two intermediate camps at 4400m and 5200m; after a steep climb out of the Pindar valley the Buria Glacier is climbed to a col at 5330m; the north ridge of Bauljuri is then climbed to the summit (PD, snow and ice slopes to 45deg); the peak offers a superb view of all the mountains on the south side of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.

Sat May 29th: Rest at base camp and preparations for the crossing of Traill's Pass

Sun-Tues May 30th-June 1st: The traverse of Traill's Pass (5312m) - a steep challenging climb with intermediate camp and a final gully of Scottish grade II standard (55-60deg) lead to the pristine wilderness of the upper Pindar Glacier. The glacier plateau is crossed, close under the snow giants of Nanda Kot (6861m), Changuch (6322m), Nanda Khat (6611m) and Nanda Devi (7816m), for 2km to the pass. A 45deg grade I gully is descended to the Lawan valley and Nanda Devi East base camp. The overall difficulty of the pass is Alpine AD. The crossing will be made in lightweight alpine-style with the company of high altitude porters.

Wed-Fri June 2nd-4th: Trek down the paradiscal Lawan and Gori Ganga valleys to the roadhead at Munsiari; 60km with overnight stops at Rilkot (3130m) and Raragari (2300m)

Sat-Sun June 5th-6th: Bus journey back to Delhi via the bustling hill and lakeside resort of Naini Tal where you will stay on Sat night; overnight flights back to UK arriving on morning of June 7th.

Optional day trip to Taj Mahal on Mon June 7th with return to UK on Tues June 8th £120 extra including taxi, entry fees, tour guide and extra night's accommodation in Delhi.

TRIP GRADE: B (see our main Himalayan page for details of grades)

PRICE: £3,150 includes Return flights from London Heathrow to Delhi; Hotel and resthouse accommodation, breakfasts and evening meals in Delhi, Binsar, Bageshwar Munsiari and Naini Tal; sightseeing tour in Delhi; Guiding from qualified British expedition leaders; services of Cook and High Altitude Porters; all charges for Permits and Peak Fees; Mules and porters for transport of kit through the trek; all Food on trek and use of Tents if required; plus "climate change carbon offset" levy to Carbon Footprint Ltd . Personal Insurance. Drinks, restaurant lunches, tips are not included; optional day trip to Taj Mahal on Mon June 7th £120 extra. Maximum Number: 10 persons

Discounts: 5% to group of 3 or more, 2.5% on bookings received before Dec 15th 2009, 5% to past Himalayan clients, 2.5% to past Alpine/Scottish course clients. For a land-only trip excluding flights to India please deduct £400.

Bauljuri (5922m) : the main climbing objective of the trip

The crossing of Traill's Pass and outward trekking route

Pre-requirements to join the trip: All members must be trained and competent in roped mountaineering on snow and mixed terrain grade Scottish I/II or Alpine PD; previous altitude experience to 4000m+ on treks or mountaineering trips is helpful. However, with a gentle altitude profile and relatively low base camp this trip is suitable if you have not been to high altitude before. The ascent of Bauljuri and crossing of Traill's Pass involve serious mountain terrain with angles to 55 deg and pitched sections. Good mountain fitness is essential to enjoy the trip and make the most of the itinerary offered.

Preparation and Technical Training: All members need to get "hill fit" with regular mountain walking days of 12-15km distance and 800-1200m ascent in the months prior to departure, preferably carrying a load between 10-15kg. Winter montaineering training, as offered by our Winter Mountaineer or Intro Winter Climber courses gives necessary technical skills to tackle the peaks and glacier climbing planned on the trip. We will also run a Pre-expedition training weekend in Scotland on 20th - 21st March when the team members can get together socially and receive all necessary technical training in snow climbing and ropework (price £220 for 2 days with full-board accommodation).

Equipment: Axe, crampons, helmet and lightweight harness are required for the mountaineering phases of the trip. We can hire these items if not possessed. Lightweight plastic mountain boots will be required on this trip, plus lightweight trekking shoes. Clothing is required to withstand a big temperature range from -10degC at night to +25degC by day. Take a 60-70litre Rucksack to carry plus large tough travel holdall for mules/portering. We have plastic boots and other equipment available to rent.

Insurance and Visas: BMC Alpine & Ski insurance cover is sufficient and is the recommended policy for this trip, price £83 in 2009. All members will require a Tourist Visa for entry to India and this is obtained from Visa Application Centres in the UK at cost of £30 plus service and post charges of c.£15.

Trip Leader and Staff: Your leader will be a qualified Mountain Guide (BMG/IFMGA) or Mountain Instructor (MIC) with long experience of expedition guiding. The benefits of having a British leader of this calibre and experience are immeasurable, especially in sorting out any logistical problems and in providing the initiative and technical expertise to explore the high mountain country. In event that we have 6 or more members on the trip a second British guide will join the team. The team will be supported by our regular High Altitude Porters, who are hardy and tough mountaineers with vast experience of climbing on these mountains. These porters will assist in ferrying loads to high camps and breaking new trails. Our base camp cook and trip sirdar, Naveen Chandra, is also one of our regulars and as well as being a brilliant cook is a superb host over evening meals.

Acclimatisation and Altitude Profile: The schedule allows gradual acclimatisation from 2000m to 3650m at base camp; a full week is allowed for the ascent of Bauljuri with return to base at 3650m for recuperation. The party will then be well-acclimatisated for the crossing of 5312m Traill's Pass.

More trip details and kit list available on request

Director: Martin Moran
IFMGA and BMG Guide