SPRING
2009: HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION
NANDA
DEVI EAST (7434m)
14th
MAY - 22nd JUNE 2009
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Nanda
Devi from Chiring We: Main and East Summits (photo:
Alex Moran)
Our
Spring 2009 expedition is perhaps our most challenging ever
and will appeal to experienced mountaineers who want to climb
one of the world's great peaks in good style. Nanda Devi is
an eternal icon of unattainable beauty and dominates one of
the world's most precious and gorgeous mountain biospheres.
Our expedition will make the first-ever guided attempt on the
mountain's East Summit, which is the only top with allowed access;
so this is a special opportunity well-outside the usual range
of commercial expeditioning. Read on and get in touch with us
as soon as possible if you have an interest in taking one of
the available places. Applications to join the trip should be
accompanied by a detailed mountaineering c.v.
The
Mountain: Nanda Devi (7816m) is the highest mountain wholly
within India and was the highest peak in the British Empire.
The bliss-giving goddess Nanda is worshipped throughout the
surrounding hill regions. A majestic twin-topped peak, Nanda
Devi was the highest mountain in the world to be climbed when
Tilman and Odell stood on top in 1936 and remained so until
the French succeeded on Annapurna in 1950. The normal approach
to the main peak through the Rishi Ganga gorge has been closed
to climbers and trekkers since 1982 to protect the Nanda Devi
Sanctuary and biosphere reserve.
Nanda Devi East (7434m) was first ascended by a Polish
team in 1939. Though lower in altitude the Polish route was
a testing climb, and reckoned to be the hardest route in the
Himalayas before World War Two. Remarkably, no other routes
have been established on the peak. The Polish route on the South
Ridge has been repeated several times. Military style siege
tactics have been used on occasions with huge quantities of
fixed rope. In 1994 the first and only British ascent to date
was recorded by Roger Payne with his wife Julie Ann Clyma, climbing
in lightweight alpine style. Nanda Devi East is most easily
approached from the Gori Ganga valley to the east and so is
not subject to access restriction. The expedition plans to repeat
the S Ridge in semi-alpine style with minimal use of fixed ropes
on the upper half of the ridge.
The
Climb: The S Ridge is a challenging climb, rating Alpine
Difficile, with exposed rock, snow and mixed terrain, and limited
camp-sites. Above 6100m there are will be few if any fixed ropes.
The terrain is worthy of Alpine AD (Scottish grade II/III) right
up to the summit and there is some excellent climbing on the
upper ridge.
As a guideline Nanda Devi East is a tougher challenge than Ama
Dablam - being considerably higher and requiring a long push
without fixed lines on the upper ridge. For those who have already
done Ama Dablam it would be a good onward choice.
We seek a team of sturdy experienced mountaineers who have past-experience
to 6000m and have numerous ascents of Alpine routes of AD and
D standard. A proven ability to climb (ie leading at least Severe
on rock, Scottish grade III) is essential. Sherpa Tenzing described
his 1951 ascent of Nanda Devi East as the toughest he ever did,
Everest included.
Our intended style will be to fix ropes as needed over the crux
pinnacled section to 6100m. Thereafter we will use alpine-style
methods, moving together and pitching as required, in interest
of speed and in respect to a sacred mountain. We will have two
Sherpas and a high altitude porter to help us with load-ferrying
and any rope-fixing right up to Camp 4 at 6500m.
The
Team: We are looking for up to 8 suitably experienced climbers
to join the expedition. We will provide British Guides on a
2:1 climbing ratio plus support Sherpas.
The
South Ridge to Nanda Devi East
Outline
itinerary
Thurs May 14th : Fly to Delhi
Fri May 15th : Briefing and clearance from Indian Mountaineering
Foundation; meet Liaison Officer, Sherpas and Indian staff;
catch overnight sleeper to Kathgodam
Sat-Sun May 16th-17th: Bus journey through foothills
of Kumaon; overnight stay at Chakori hill station (2000m) which
has superb views of the Nanda Devi ranges; then to roadhead
at Munsiari (2200m); obtain local permits and meet porter team
Mon May 18th : Finish administrative procedures and start
trek up Gori Ganga valley to Lilam (8km)
Tues May 19th : 16km trek through the jaws of the Gori
Ganga gorge to Bugdiar (2417m)
Wed May 20th : 15km trek up gorge with spectacular valley
scenery to Rialkot (3130m);
Thurs May 21st : Trek to Martoli village (3300m) and
to Lawan (3600m) in Lawan valley (14km)
Fri-Sat May 22nd-23rd : Trek Lawan to base camp on north
side Lawan Glacier (4300m) (12km); set up base camp and rest
Sun - Thurs May 24th - 28th : Establish route to Camp
1 at 4750m and Longstaff's Col (5910m) on rim of Nanda Devi
Sanctuary; load-ferrying and acclimatisation
Fri - Tues May 29th - June 2nd : Occupy Camp 2 on the
col, acclimatise, and push route out up lower pinnacled section
of S Ridge of Nanda Devi East; rope-fixing and load-carry to
establish Camp 3 at 6100m
Wed - Fri June 3rd - 5th: Rest at base camp
Sat June 6th - Tues June 16th : Summit attempts: follow
snow and mixed ridge with pitches of 50-55°, establishing
Camp 4 on snow shelf at 6500m; making summits bids from there
with likely use of a summit bivouac camp at 6950m; clear mountain
of fixed ropes and return to base
Wed - Fri June 17th - 19th : Trek out to Munsiari
Sat - Sun June 20th - 21st : Bus journey back to Delhi
Mon-Tues June 22nd - 23rd : Debrief at IMF and return
flights
Note:
Team members pushed for leave time can fly overnight from UK
on May14-15 and return overnight on June 21-22, making the trip
38 days total.
Maximum
number of members: 8 with 3 or 4 British Mountain Guides
(organised and led by Martin Moran)
Price:
£5,350 incl Flights Heathrow-Delhi, Peak Fees,
Travel in India, British Guides, Sherpas and Indian staff, half-board
3-4* Hotels in India, use of Equipment/Tents. Not included:
Personal Insurance, Visas, Tips, Drinks, Lunches on the road.
Deduct £500 for land-only price.
Discounts: 2½% discount on bookings received before
31st Oct 2008, 2½% to past-Scottish/Alpine
clients; 5% to past Himalayan-clients, 5% to groups
of 3 or more and 15% to a qualified doctor willing to
undertake the role of medical officer on the team. 20% discount
for resident Indian nationals joining trip in Delhi.
Maps:
Garhwal Himalaya East 1:150000 topographic map (£20.95)
; Leomann Trekking Map Indian Himalaya No 8 (£7.25) Books:
Nanda Devi: exploration and ascent A compendium of Shipton
and Tilman's classic books on the mountain with detailed historical
update, Baton Wicks (1999)(available from www.stanfords.co.uk
or www.cordee.co.uk)
Full
dossier available on request
