Home - About Martin Moran - News and Offers - Scottish Courses - Norway - Alpine Courses - Himalayan Expeditions

Photos & Reports - Books & Lectures - Prices - Enquiry Form - Secure Booking Form - Blog and Forum - Links

alpine courses

ALPINE COURSES

 alps mountain guiding

LOCATION: Our summer alpine base is the attractive and traditional village of Evolène in the Val d'Hérens which lies in the centre of the Swiss Valais Alps. The mighty Dent Blanche
(4,357 m)
towers above the village and the famous Matterhorn is only
25 km distant. As well as great local climbing on the Arolla ranges we can get to most of the great mountain centres within a 2 hour drive - Zermatt, Chamonix, Saas Fee, Zinal and Grindelwald are all within our compass. Evolène is an ideal base for beginner and expert alike.

GETTING TO US: Just 25 km from the main Rhône Valley Evolène is easily reached. Plane to Geneva, rapid train to Sion, then the local postbus, or by train to Sion, or drive direct from Calais in 10 hours or less.

OUR CHALET BASES: Chalets 'Les Maures' and 'Pre d'Evolene' are peaceful and well-equipped bases for our clients just 2 km from the village centre with twin or single accommodation. Our chalet host Judith Weston provides excellent home cuisine and plentiful mountain food during your stay.

 alpine climbing courses

 The Allalinhorn - Swiss Trekking Peaks
The Allalinhorn - Swiss Trekking Peaks

STAFF: All Alpine courses are staffed by qualified British Mountain Guides and Aspirant Guides with international UIAGM accreditation . We have a regular guiding team with intimate local knowledge, who are skilled instructors and motivators.

AGE AND FITNESS: Clients aged between 18 and 70 may join us provided they have good fitness from regular trekking and/or mountaineering. We can advise on training and preparation for the Alps.

EQUIPMENT: We can loan or hire specialist equipment for Alpine Climbing. A full kit list is sent out on booking.

PRIVATE GUIDING: Some clients or groups may like to book private guiding for specific mountains or tours. Contact us with your ideas. Minimum period of engagement: 3 days. We are available to run group courses/private guidng from June to September. Daily guiding rates range from £225 to £280 according to itineraries and group size.

COURSES: Our courses offer itineraries for all ambitions and experience with the option of one or two week duration.

Choose from three levels: 1) Trekking Peaks Courses, 2) Introductory Mountaineering and High Summits 3) Intermediate and Advanced Level Courses to help you choose the technical grade appropriate to your experience and ambitions.
One Week or Two?: On 6 day courses we try to give you maximum productivity of climbing and training, and you can enjoy an alpine holiday without stealing all your annual leave. 12 day courses give you more flexibility with weather, conditions and choice of routes, and allow proper acclimatisation for attempts on major high-level peaks. Some guests combine two 6 day courses to make a fortnight's holiday.

Course prices include: Full board chalet accommodation in the valley (single, twin or 4 bedded rooms) with 3 course dinners and afternoon teas, all packed lunch food, Guiding & instruction (6 days per week), guides' hut and travel expenses. Car/minibus transport during the course to/from the mountain venues is provided. Personal hut charges and cablecars/mountain railways are not included as they vary considerably according to the chosen venues - it is simpler and fairer for you to settle these as incurred rather than for us to impose a fixed inflexible charge. [Allow £60-90 on a 1 wk course and £120-180 on a 2 wk course, £120-150 on Eiger-Matterhorn].


Trekking Peaks Courses: Ideal for keen mountain walkers and scramblers who want to enjoy the challenge of the high Alps without encountering technical rock and ice terrain. Previous snow experience using axe and crampons is helpful but not essential; prior roped climbing experience is not required but good walking fitness is essential. All essential skills are taught from beginner level.
Technical level: snow slopes up to 45deg, easy angled glacier ice, rock scrambling, occasional narrow ridges.; Scottish winter grade I; Alpine grades F to PD
Suitable courses for preparation: Winter Mountaineer, Skye Mountaineer

Swiss Trekking Peaks - 6 or 12 days- Max Group Ratio 4:1

Climb the snow peaks of the high Alps without undertaking technical climbing You'll be able to climb summits up to 4600m altitude and learn all the essential skills of alpine mountaineering. The course often undertakes a 3 or 4 day expedition, moving from hut to hut and crossing high peaks and passes en-route. You have the option of doing a 6 day or 12 day itinerary. A typical 12 day itinerary is:
Day 1: Glacier training; axe/crampon skills, crevasse rescue
Days 2-4: Walk from Arolla to Dix Hut, climb La Luette (3543m) and traverse the Pigne d'Arolla (3796m)
Day 5-6: Drive to Saas valley and climb to Hohsaas hut, climb Weissmies (4023m)
Day 7: Rest day in Evolene Days 8-12: Traverse Italian Haute Route - the classic trekking peaks circuit from Zermatt staying at Italian huts and crossing the Breithorn (4164m), Castor (4228m), and 4 summits of Monte Rosa including 4556m Signalkuppe.
Day 13: Valley rock climbing and a 'Via Ferrata' ascent

2008 Dates: 6 days: 5-11 July, 2-8 Aug; 12days: 19 July - 1 Aug, 9-22 Aug

PRICE: £1,340 (12 days) £720 (6days)


Introductory Mountaineering and High Summits: These courses offer a solid instructional grounding and varied experience of routes on snow, rock and mixed terrain, with ascents to the highest peaks of the Alps. They are ideal for a first Alpine trip for aspiring mountaineers and will suit those who enjoy general mountaineering with some rope-work and technical interest. Some past experience of roped climbing on rock or snow/ice terrain is preferred and good walking fitness is essential.
Technical level: snow slopes up to 50deg, glacier ice to 40deg, rock scrambling/climbing to Alpine grade III UK Severe level; exposed narrow ridges; Scottish winter grade II; Alpine grades F to PD+ with occasional short sections of AD terrain
Suitable courses for preparation: Winter Mountaineer, Intro Winter Climber, Skye Mountaineer, Cuillin Traverse

Introductory Alpine Climbing - 6 days - Max Group Ratio 3:1

Intro Alpine - Monte Rosa from Pollux

Intro Alpine - Monte Rosa from Pollux

A productive week of instruction and ascents up to 4,000 metres altitude in the Arolla and Zermatt ranges. Designed for mountaineers and climbers seeking a firm skills grounding in their first season in the Alps, including snow, ice and rock techniques. Some prior experience of winter mountaineering and/or roped climbing is helpful, but we will guide you from first steps in all the essential Alpine skills. Itineraries are tailored to group experience and aspirations.

Sample programme:-
Day 1: Glacier training; axe/crampon skills, crevasse rescue
Day 2-4: Walk from Arolla to Dix Hut; climb Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3869m) (PD) and traverse Pigne d'Arolla (3796m) (F+)
Days 5-6: Valley rock climbing, teaching prusiking and belay techniques; drive to Saas Grund, ascend to Weissmies Hut, climb Lagginhorn (4010m) (PD)

2008 Dates: 5-11 July, 12-18 July, 19-25 July, 26 July-1 Aug, 2-8 Aug, 9-15 Aug, 16-22 Aug

PRICE: £790

Mont Blanc Fortnight - 12 days - (3:1 ratio, 2:1 on M.Blanc)
The highest summit in Western Europe! We attempt Mont Blanc on a 2:1 ratio, usually by the classic traverse from Col du Midi, plus two other 4000ers such as Alphubel (4206m) or Rimpfischhorn (4198m). Allowing 2 weeks for Mont Blanc gives you greater flexibility in timing the ascent and proper acclimatisation. As a result our Mont Blanc courses enjoy a 95-100% success rate and our guests can acquire greater experience and skill levels during the first week of training climbs and acclimatisation.

Sample Itinerary

2008 Dates: 5-18 July, 9-22 Aug

PRICE: £1560

Oberland Odyssey 6 days (3:1 ratio)
Tackle the great peaks and glaciers of the Bernese Alps, wildest and most remote region of the Western Alps . The Jungfrau (4158m), Mönch (4099m), Aletschhorn (4195m) and Finsteraarhorn (4274m) are among the peaks that can be climbed in an adventurous 5 day hut trip after an initial glacier training day. Highly recommended if you've already climbed peaks round Zermatt or Chamonix. Mountain hut accommodation is of the highest quality with excellent food.

Sample Itinerary

2008 Dates: 19-25 July, 2-8 Aug

PRICE: £860

Swiss Giants - 12 days (3:1 ratio)
Climb Switzerland's highest mountains, the Dufourspitze on Monte Rosa (4634m) (2nd highest in the Alps), Dom (4545m), or Nadelhorn (4327m) and other 4000m giants in the Zermatt area after training and preparation climbs on the Arolla peaks. The Zermatt range has a vast wealth of 4000m mountains with rich historic association and excellent access. Technical standard PD and PD+ with a short section of AD- on the Dufourspitze.

Sample Itinerary

2007 Dates: 2-15 Aug

PRICE: £1490


Intermediate and Advanced Level Courses: These courses require greater prior experience of rock and/or snow-ice climbing; they can follow on from one of our Introductory level Alpine courses or from a good experience of personal technical climbing on home hills. There is a big step up in difficulty from easier PD snow climbs to AD and D level mixed routes. Neat efficient climbing technique on tricky and exposed terrain is demanded. Full instruction is given in the more advanced rope-work and technical skills required; good general mountain fitness is essential.
Technical level: snow slopes up to 55deg, snow/ice faces up to 75deg, rock scrambling/climbing of Alpine grade III/IV, UK Severe/VS level, exposed narrow ridges.; Scottish winter grades II to III; Alpine grades PD+, AD and D
Suitable courses for preparation: Intro or Technical Winter Climber, Intro or Technical Ice, Cuillin Traverse, Adventure Rock Climbing, or any Introductory and High Summits Alpine course.


Intermediate Alpine Climbing - 6 days - Group Ratio: 2:1

Intermediate Alpine - Breithorn Traverse

Intermediate Alpine - Breithorn Traverse

For climbers who seek to climb more technical routes at AD and D standard, including peaks such as the Dent Blanche (4357m) or Zinal Rothorn (4221m), plus an instructional refresher in Alpine skills and a high-quality AD training climb around Arolla such as the traverse of L'Evêque or W. Ridge of the Dent de Tsalion. When conditions are suitable we may include a North Face snow and ice climb. Can follow on from an Intro course to make a fortnight; some previous rock or winter climbing experience essential.

Sample Itinerary

2008 Dates: 5-11 July, 12-18 July, 19-25 July, 26 July-1 Aug, 2-8 Aug, 9-15 Aug, 16-22 Aug

PRICE: £1040

The Swiss Big Three - Eiger - Matterhorn - Dent Blanche 12 days

The Eiger (3970m), Matterhorn (4478m) and Dent Blanche (4357m) in a fortnight - Switzerland's most famous summits; a must for aspiring Alpinists who relish a big challenge. Prior technical climbing experience to UK Severe/USA 5.5 on rock and grade II/III in winter is required. The fortnight offers an initial training route such as the Traverse of L'Eveque (3716m) (AD, III+) and an instructional session to provide essential acclimatisation before tackling the main objectives. 2:1 guiding ratio with 1:1 on the Matterhorn. We'll take you rock climbing to beautiful cliffs in the Valais region on any spare days. One of our most popular courses so book early!

2008 Dates: 19 July - 1 Aug

PRICE: £2,040

Eiger - Matterhorn Double - 6 days - group ratio 1:1

Climb Europe's most famous peaks on a one week's budget and by their most exciting ridges - Mittellegi and South Ridge traverse of the Eiger, and the Hornli, Italian or Zmutt Ridge on the Matterhorn; with a 1:1 guiding ratio these can be achieved in good conditions; substantial recent climbing experience essential and a couple of days prior personal acclimatisation is recommended.

Sample Itinerary

2008 Dates: 2-8 Aug

PRICE: £1,640

Alpine 3900m Classics - 12days group ratio 2:1

If you've already climbed a few harder 4000m peaks and want a new challenge, then this is the course for you! Tackle 4 superb and difficult 3900m peaks in remote and inspiring ranges of the Alps; options include Eiger traverse (3970m), the historic and magnificent Traverse of La Meije (3983m) in the Ecrins massif, the enigmatic Bietschhorn (3934m) in the Oberland and Italy's superb Grivola (3960m). Climbing will be AD to D in standard with rock pitches to IV+ standard.

2007 Dates: 2-15 Aug

PRICE: £1,980

Grandes Courses - the Zinal Rothorn traverse

Grandes Courses - the Zinal Rothorn traverse

Grandes Courses 12 days - Ratio 2:1

A challenging programme coaching personal skills and then tackling some of the great ridge and face routes on the harder Swiss and Chamonix peaks.

For those with prior alpine experience or regular rock climbing and winter moutaineering (to UK Severe/VS and Scottish winter grade III)

North Face Fortnight: Climb classic snow and ice routes in the Swiss and Mont Blanc ranges such as the Pigne d'Arolla, Tour Ronde, Lenspitze, or Ober Gabelhorn N.Faces, Grand Combin, Nadelgrat or Rochefort traverse. A must for snow and ice enthusiasts.

2008 Dates: 5-18 July

Rock and Mixed: Climb classic routes in the Western Alps at AD and D standard, mixed and rock routes such as the Breithorn Traverse, Frontier Ridge of Mont Maudit, Dent du Géant and Rochefort Ridge, Weisshorn and Zinal Rothorn Traverses, and ice faces as Pigne d'Arolla N.Face as conditions allow plus superb training routes on the Arolla peaks and rock climbs on some of Switzerland's finest crags

2008 Dates: 19 July-1 Aug, 9-22 Aug

PRICE: £1,940

To quote one guest from our 2005 Grandes Courses: "Thank you again for organising such a fantastic holiday. I thought your whole operation was excellent, your staff really impressive (from catering to Knots!) and nothing was too much problem for we clients"


MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT SPONSORSHIP:

For 2008 we are pleased to team up again with Mountain Equipment - Britain's No.1 manufacturer of gear for the serious mountaineer - in recommending the right kit for your climbs with us. Mountain Equipment supplied the jackets, clothing, rucksacks and sleeping bags used on our successful first ascents of Nilkanth West Ridge and The Godfather (VIII on Beinn Bhan). For full details of their range and a list of stockists go to their web-site: www.mountain-equipment.co.uk

Please join our mailing list for latest news and special offer updates
your email address


Join our mailing list for news and special offers - select your areas of interest
name email

Martin Moran Mountaineering
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
Tel/Fax 01520 722361     E-mail martin.moran@btinternet.com

Director: Martin Moran
IFMGA and BMG Guide
uiagm alpine guide british mountain guides

alps climbing coursesalps mountain guideshimalayas expeditionshimalayas treksice climbing coursesindia himalayas expeditionsrock climbing courseswinter mountaineering coursesscotland mountaineering coursesscotland mountain guidesskye mountain guideswinter mountain courses