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ALPINE
COURSES
2012 |

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Our
summer Alpine courses have been a major fixture in our
calendar since 1986, and each year we offer an ever-wider
range of courses and holidays in the high Alps, designed
for all levels of ambition and experience. Many of our clients
have been regulars for many years, which is testimony to
our high standards of guiding, organisation and delivery
of achievement. The courses are not just instructional;
they are adventurous and enjoyable in equal measure and
offer the chance to form lasting friendships in the mountains.
The mountain days are complemented by in-house accommodation
in chalets and appartments with superb home-cooking and
hospitality from our chalet hostess, Judith Hawtree. A lively
social atmosphere among the course groups is guaranteed
over evening dinner and later in the cafes and bars of Evolene
village. Look through the details of location, course content
and accommodation and we hope you will join us in the
Alps in 2012.
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LOCATION:
Our summer alpine
base is the village of Evolène in the
Val d'Hérens which lies in the centre
of the Swiss Valais Alps. Having been spared the indignity
of large-scale ski development Evolène
remains one of the most attractive villages in the Swiss
Alps, combining rustic charm, tranquillity and a full
range of services for the visiting mountaineer. The
mighty Dent Blanche (4,357 m) towers above the
village and the famous Matterhorn is only 25
km distant.
As well as great local
climbing on the Arolla ranges we can get to most
of the great mountain centres within a 2 hour drive
- Zermatt, Chamonix, Saas Fee, Zinal and Grindelwald
are all within our compass. Evolène is an ideal
base for beginner and expert alike.
GETTING
TO US: Just
25 km from the main Rhône Valley Evolène
is easily reached. Plane to Geneva, rapid train to Sion,
then the local postbus, or by train to Sion, or drive
direct from Calais in 10 hours or less.
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See our best 2011 Alpine Photos on our Flickr page

Descending
the NNW Ridge of the Weisshorn
Exchange Rate and Price Increase in 2012: We feel it is fair to explain to all our clients that we have had to increase our course prices by 8% in 2012 to counter the long-term devaluation of the £ against the Swiss Franc. In the last four years £1 has fallen in value from 2.2 to 1.35 Swiss Francs, causing a 60% rise in local costs. In this economic climate we have to make an extra price increment and we hope all clients understand this predicament. We still believe that our courses offer great value in giving you some of Europe's finest mountaineering in a magnificent scenic setting.
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STAFF:
All Alpine courses
are staffed by qualified guides with international IFMGA
accreditation. Our staff are almost exclusively British Mountain Guides
and Aspirant Guides who have long experience of working with English-speaking clients. We have a regular guiding team with
intimate local knowledge, who are skilled instructors
and motivators.
MEALS AND CATERING: All evening meals and breakfasts are provided when you are in the valley as well as packed lunches for all your mountain days. Judith's afternoon teas are now legendary - a magnificent spread of scones, iced sponge cakes and tray bakes. We happily cater for vegetarians, vegans or gluten-free diets. You can see mouth-watering samples of Judith's cooking on her web site judescupcakes.com
AGE
AND FITNESS: Clients aged between 18 and
70 may join us provided they have good fitness from
regular trekking and/or mountaineering. We can advise
on training and preparation for the Alps.
EQUIPMENT:
We can loan or hire specialist
equipment for Alpine Climbing, such as Axe, Crampons,
Helmet, Harness and Boots. A full kit list is sent out
on booking.
PRIVATE
GUIDING: Some clients or groups may like
to book private guiding for specific mountains or tours.
Contact us with your ideas. Minimum period of engagement:
3 days. We are available to run group courses/private
guiding from June to September. Daily guiding rates
range from £280 to £360 according
to itineraries and group size. |
OUR
CHALET BASES: 'Chalet
Chemin des Etoiles', 'Pelyo-Nou' and 'Apt.
Beau Sejour' are peaceful and well-equipped bases
for our clients in and around Evolène
village. They offer a variety of double,
twin or single room, plus spacious lounge areas and extensive
balconies. Whenever you come down from the mountains during
the week you can be assured of plentiful home cuisine, hot baths
and showers, clothes washing facilities and personal care. Judith's
magnificent afternoon teas offer an
unforgettable welcome after a hard day on the mountains. 3-course
dinners are served at 8pm.
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Chalet
Chemin des Etoiles. Evolène |

Afternoon
tea at Chemin des Etoiles |

Judith
serves dinner |
THE COURSES:
Our
courses offer itineraries for all ambitions
and experience with the option of one
or two week duration.
Choose
from three levels:
1) Trekking
Peaks Courses, 2)
Introductory Mountaineering and High Summits
3) Intermediate
and Advanced Level "Grandes Courses"
to
help you choose the technical grade appropriate to your experience
and ambitions.
And for our most experienced Alpinists: Performance
Alpinism
Plus our French: ECRINS SPECIAL: 6 days on classic routes in the French Alps culminating in the magnificent Traverse of La Meije....full details
One
Week or Two?: On 6 day
courses we try to give you maximum productivity of climbing
and training, and you can enjoy an alpine holiday without stealing
all your annual leave. 12 day
courses give you more flexibility with weather, conditions and
choice of routes, and allow proper acclimatisation for attempts
on major high-level peaks. Some guests combine two 6 day courses
to make a fortnight's holiday.
Course
prices include: Full
board chalet accommodation
in the valley (single, twin or 5 bedded rooms) with 3
course dinners and afternoon teas, all packed
lunch food, Guiding &
instruction (6 days per week), guides'
hut and travel expenses. Car/minibus
transport during the course to/from the mountain
venues is provided.
Personal
hut charges and cablecars/mountain railways are NOT included
as they vary considerably according to the chosen venues. Some groups use cheap bivouac huts, some even bivvy out (!), others make fuller use of uplift and private huts where costs are much higher. Purchase of a Half-Price Swiss Travel Card is recommended on all two week and 1 week Eiger-Matterhorn courses. It
is simpler and fairer for you to settle these costs as incurred rather
than for us to impose a fixed and inflexible charge. Allow £90-150
on a 1 wk course and £170-280 on a 2
wk course, £200 on Eiger-Matterhorn. Even
with addition of these costs you'll find that our prices remain
competitive.
ALPINE
COURSE PHOTO SELECTIONS: 2008
Highlights -- 2009
Highlights
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Trekking
Peaks Courses: Ideal
for keen mountain walkers and scramblers who want to
enjoy the challenge of the high Alps without encountering technical
rock and ice terrain. Previous snow experience using axe and
crampons is helpful but not essential; prior roped climbing
experience is not required but good walking fitness is essential.
All essential skills are taught from beginner level.
Technical level: snow slopes
up to 45deg, easy angled glacier ice, rock scrambling, occasional
narrow ridges.; Scottish winter grade I; Alpine grades F to
PD
Suitable courses for preparation:
Winter Mountaineer,
Skye Mountaineer
Swiss
Trekking Peaks - 6 or 12 days- Max Group Ratio
4:1
Climb
the snow peaks of the high Alps
without undertaking technical climbing You'll be able to climb
summits up to 4600m altitude and learn all the essential skills
of alpine mountaineering. The course often undertakes a 3 or
4 day expedition, moving from hut to hut and crossing high peaks
and passes en-route. You have the option of doing a 6 day or
12 day itinerary. A typical 12 day itinerary is:
Day 1: Glacier training; axe/crampon
skills, crevasse rescue
Days 2-4: Walk from Arolla to Dix
Hut, climb La Luette (3543m) and traverse the Pigne d'Arolla
(3796m)
Day 5-6: Drive to Saas valley and
climb to Hohsaas hut, climb Weissmies (4023m)
Day 7: Rest day
in Evolene Days 8-12:
Traverse Italian Haute Route -
the classic trekking peaks circuit from Zermatt staying at Italian
huts and crossing the Breithorn (4164m),
Castor (4228m), and 4 summits of
Monte Rosa including 4556m
Signalkuppe.
Day 13: Valley rock climbing and
a 'Via Ferrata' ascent
"A truly memorable holiday for a 60 year old beginner. Martin certainly gives you more than a standard course - there is real alpine experience to be had.." Bo, 2010
2012
Dates: 6 days: 7-13 July, 18-24 Aug; 12days: 21 July-3 Aug
PRICE:
£1,700 (12 days) £840 (6days)
Introductory
Mountaineering and High Summits:
These
courses offer a solid instructional grounding
and varied experience of routes on snow, rock and mixed terrain,
with ascents to the highest peaks of the
Alps. They are ideal for a first
Alpine trip for aspiring mountaineers and will suit those who
enjoy general mountaineering with some rope-work and technical
interest. Some past experience of roped climbing on rock
or snow/ice terrain is preferred and good walking fitness is
essential.
Technical level: snow slopes
up to 50deg, glacier ice to 40deg, rock scrambling/climbing
to Alpine grade III UK Severe level; exposed narrow ridges;
Scottish winter grade II; Alpine grades F to PD+ with occasional
short sections of AD terrain
Suitable courses for preparation: Winter
Mountaineer, Intro Winter
Climber, Skye Mountaineer,
Cuillin Traverse
Introductory
Alpine Climbing - 6 days - Max Group Ratio 3:1

Intro
Alpine - Monte Rosa from Pollux
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A
productive week of instruction and ascents up to 4,000 metres
altitude in the Arolla and Zermatt ranges. Designed for mountaineers
and climbers seeking a firm skills grounding in their first
season in the Alps, including snow, ice and rock techniques.
Some prior experience of winter mountaineering and/or roped
climbing is helpful, but we will guide you from first steps
in all the essential Alpine skills. Itineraries are tailored
to group experience and aspirations.
Sample
programme:-
Day 1: Glacier training on Ferpecle
Glacier; crampon skills, ice climbing, crevasse rescue
Day 2-4: Walk from Arolla to Dix
Hut; climb Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3869m)
(PD) and traverse Pigne d'Arolla (3796m)
(F+)
Days 5-6: Valley rock climbing,
teaching prusiking and belay techniques; drive to Saas Grund,
ascend to Weissmies Hut, climb Lagginhorn
(4010m) (PD)
"Taken out of our comfort zone in a week of continued learning. A real sense of improvement and achievement." Alison and John, 2010
2012
Dates: 7-13 July, 14-20 July, 21-27 July, 28 July-3 Aug, 4-10
Aug, 11-17 Aug, 18-24 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE:
£950
Oberland
Odyssey 6 days (2:1 ratio)
Tackle the great peaks and glaciers of
the Bernese Alps, wildest and most remote
region of the Western Alps . The Jungfrau (4158m), Monch (4109m), Gross
Fiescherhorn (4049m), Aletschhorn (4195m) and Finsteraarhorn
(4274m) are among the peaks that can be climbed in an
adventurous 5 day hut trip after an initial technical training
day on the glacier. Highly recommended if you've already climbed peaks round
Arolla, Zermatt or Chamonix. Mountain hut accommodation is of
the highest quality with excellent food. The fitness requirements
and technical experience required on this course are higher
than Intro Alpine
Sample
Itinerary
2012
Dates: 14-20 July, 11-17 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE:
£1,320
Swiss
Giants - 12 days (3:1 ratio)
Climb Switzerland's highest mountains, the Dufourspitze
on Monte Rosa (4634m) (2nd highest
in the Alps), Dom (4545m),
or Nadelhorn (4327m) and other
4000m giants in the Zermatt area after training and preparation
climbs on the Arolla peaks. The Zermatt
range has a vast wealth of 4000m mountains with rich historic
association and excellent access. Technical standard
PD and PD+ with a short section of AD- on the Dufourspitze.
Sample
Itinerary
2012
Dates: 4-17 Aug
PRICE:
£1,860
Mont
Blanc Fortnight - 12
days - (3:1 ratio, 2:1 on M.Blanc)
The highest summit in Western Europe! We attempt Mont Blanc on a 2:1 ratio, usually by the
Gouter Ridge or classic 3 cols traverse from Col du Midi, plus
two other 4000ers such as Alphubel (4206m)
or Rimpfischhorn (4198m). Allowing
2 weeks for Mont Blanc gives you greater flexibility in timing
the ascent and proper acclimatisation. As a result our
Mont Blanc courses enjoy a 95-100% success rate and our
guests can acquire greater experience and skill levels during
the first week of training climbs and acclimatisation.
"What
an achievement! From novices to Mont Blanc - what a difference
a week makes." Marie, Mont Blanc course 2008
Sample
Itinerary
2012
Dates: 7-20 July, 18-31 Aug
PRICE:
£2,010
Intermediate
and Advanced Level Courses: These courses require greater prior experience of rock
and/or snow-ice climbing; they can follow
on from one of our Introductory level Alpine courses
or from a good experience of personal technical climbing on
home hills. There is a big step up in difficulty from easier
PD snow climbs to AD and D level mixed routes. Neat
efficient climbing technique on tricky and exposed terrain is
demanded. Full instruction is given
in the more advanced rope-work and technical skills required;
good general mountain fitness is essential.
Technical level: snow slopes
up to 55deg, snow/ice faces up to 75deg, rock scrambling/climbing
of Alpine grade III/IV, UK Severe/VS level, exposed narrow ridges.;
Scottish winter grades II to III; Alpine grades PD+, AD and
D
Suitable courses for preparation:
Intro
or Technical Winter Climber, Intro
or Technical Ice, Cuillin Traverse,
Adventure Rock Climbing, or
any Introductory and High Summits Alpine course.
Intermediate Alpine Climbing - 6 days - Group
Ratio: 2:1
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Intermediate
Alpine-Swiss Big Three - South Ridge of Dent Blanche (climbers: Andy Dawson and Graeme Lennox)
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For climbers
who seek to climb more technical routes at AD standard, culminating
in a big peak such as the Dent Blanche
(4357m) or Zinal Rothorn (4221m),
plus an instructional refresher in Alpine skills and a high-quality
AD training climb around Arolla such as the traverse
of L'Evêque or W. Ridge of
the Dent de Tsalion. When conditions are suitable we
may include a North Face snow and ice
climb. Can follow on from an Intro course to make a fortnight;
some previous rock or winter climbing experience essential.
Sample
Itinerary
2012
Dates: 7-13 July, 14-20 July, 21-27 July, 28 July-3 Aug, 4-10
Aug, 11-17 Aug, 18-24 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE:
£1,250
"Managed
to get three great routes into the week. Cheers for the best
week of climbing I've ever done" Lear, Aug 2008
The
Swiss Big Three: Eiger - Matterhorn - Dent Blanche 12 days
The Eiger (3970m), Matterhorn (4478m)
and Dent Blanche (4357m) in a fortnight - Switzerland's
most famous summits; a must for aspiring
Alpinists who relish a big challenge. Prior technical
climbing experience to UK Severe/USA 5.5 on rock and grade II/III
in winter is required. The fortnight offers an initial training
route such as the Traverse of L'Eveque (3716m) (AD, III+) and
an instructional session to provide essential acclimatisation
before tackling the main objectives. 2:1
guiding ratio with 1:1 on the Matterhorn. We'll take
you rock climbing to beautiful cliffs in the Valais region on
any spare days. One of our most popular
courses so book early!
2012 Dates: 21 July - 3 Aug
PRICE:
£2,540
Eiger
- Matterhorn Double
- 6 days - group ratio 1:1
Climb
Europe's most famous peaks on a one week's budget
and by their most exciting ridges - Mittellegi
and South Ridge traverse of the Eiger, and the Hornli,
Italian or Zmutt Ridge on the Matterhorn; with a 1:1
guiding ratio these can be achieved in good conditions; substantial
recent climbing experience essential and a couple of
days prior personal acclimatisation is recommended.
Sample
Itinerary
2012
Dates: 4-10 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE:
£2,050
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Grandes
Courses - the Zinal Rothorn traverse |
Grandes
Courses
12 days - Ratio 2:1
A
challenging programme coaching personal skills and then
tackling some of the great ridge and face routes on
the harder Swiss and Chamonix peaks at AD and D standard.
For
those with prior alpine experience or regular rock climbing
and winter moutaineering (to UK Severe/VS and Scottish
winter grade III)
North
Faces Fortnight: Climb
classic snow and ice routes in the Swiss and Mont Blanc
ranges such as the Pigne
d'Arolla, Tour Ronde, Lenspitze, or Ober Gabelhorn N.Faces,
Grand Combin, Nadelgrat or Rochefort traverse.
Recommended
for climbers with a preference for snow and ice routes.
2012
Dates: 7-20 July, 18-31 Aug
Mixed
and Rock: Climb classic routes in the Western
Alps at AD and D standard with more emphasis on mixed
and rock routes such as the Breithorn Traverse, Frontier
Ridge of Mont Maudit, Dent du Géant and Rochefort
Ridge, Dent Blanche, Weisshorn and Zinal Rothorn. Face
routes such as Pigne d'Arolla N Face may also be climbed
if conditions allow plus superb training routes
on the Arolla peaks and rock climbs on some of Switzerland's
finest crags Recommended for climbers
who want to climb classic ridges to great peaks.
2012
Dates: 21 July-3 Aug, 4-17 Aug
"Ober Gabelhorn....a stunningly exposed snow ridge..an awesome achievement in the conditions; yet again, an outstanding two weeks of climbing." Sandy
PRICE:
£2,370
Please
be aware that there is substantial crossover between
the North Faces and Mixed and Rock programmes according
to conditions. Most Grandes Courses Fortnights achieve
a mixture of snow and ice, mixed and pure rock routes |
GRANDES
COURSES: PERFORMANCE ALPINISM
For
experienced and regular Alpinists who have completed many
successful ascents at AD and D standard these courses
offer the chance to extend your experience and utilise
your skills to accomplish major "grandes courses"
at D+, TD and even ED1 standard. A
6 or 12 day itinerary is offered. We will provide a 1:1
guiding ratio for 3 days on a 6 day course and for 6 days
on a two week course. The plan is to have 2
guides working with 2 clients to climb as a foursome on
bigger and harder routes where mutual support and proximity
will provide extra security. This is your chance to tackle
great routes such as Douves Blanches Ridge (Arolla) (D), Rochefort-Grandes
Jorasses Traverse (D), Kuffner Route, Mont Maudit (D), Schreckhorn South Pillar (D+), Diable Ridge of MBlanc de Tacul (D+), Innominata
Ridge on Mont Blanc (D+), Weisshorn Traverse (D), East Face of the Grepon (D+), Cassin Route on the Piz Badile, N Face of
the Dru, Route Major on Mont Blanc (TD) or even Croz and Walker
Spurs on the Grandes Jorasses (ED1). All
applicants will need to have regular rock climbing practice
to HVS 5a/USA 5.8 level, winter climbing Scottish grade
IV. You'll be climbing on these routes under the care
of our most experienced guides.
"After 14 hours on the Schreckhorn South Pillar I reckoned we'd had a hard day out... Not a bit of it; the others staggered in after 19 hours on the traverse. That's performance!" Jonathan, 2010
2012
Dates: 6 days: 14-20 July, 11-17 Aug. 12 days: 21 July
- 3 Aug, 18-31 Aug
PRICES:
6 days: £1,950; 12 days: £3,500
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ECRINS SPECIAL
 (8)-Optimized.jpg)
Traverse of La Meije (3982m) (climbers: Jodie and Rob Magaw)
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 (11)-Optimized.jpg)
Magnificent rock climbing on the S Face of the Aiguille Dibona |
A 6 day feast of top quality alpinism at Difficile standard in the Ecrins Massif, based in La Grave, starting with wonderful rock routes on the Aiguille de Dibona (3131m) and culminating in the spectacular Traverse of La Meije (3982m), one of the finest expeditions of its kind in the Alps. travel to the Ecrins is simple with flights from London airports to Lyon, then quick bus transfers to Grenoble and Bourg d'Oisans, where car collection is available if required. The course will be directed by local IFMGA guide Anthony Franklin, who lives close to La Grave and has been a regular on our summer staff for the last 8 years. For valley nights the course uses comfortable pension accommodation at La Grave. The course offers a new adventure in a new area for experienced Alpine climbers who are confident on grade IV-V rock (UK VS standard). If you've already done some of the more difficult 4000m peaks in the Western Alps, then this itinerary will be of particular interest.
Sample itinerary:- Sat: Travel to Lyon, Grenoble and La Grave. Meet guides for course briefing. Sun: Drive to Les Etages and walk up to Soreiller Hut (2719m); afternoon rock climbing training.Mon: Ascent of Aig Dibona by South Face Direct (TD, V) or Boell Route (AD, IV); return to hut. Tues: Descend to valley and drive back to La Grave. Wed: Cablecar to 2400m, ascent of Enfetchores Buttress (AD, III), cross Breche de la Meije and traverse to Promontoire Hut (3082m). Thurs: Traverse of La Meije (D+) - a sustained and spectacular 12-14 hr day finishing at the Aigle Hut (3450m). Fri: Descend to La Grave Sat: Travel home. Alternative objectives are the traverse of the Aigs du Soreiller (3350m) and one of many climbs on Le Rateau (3809m) In event of unsettled weather the itinerary can be shifted to time the Meije traverse for the best weather.
The course can be combined with one of our one week courses based in Evolene with travel from Evolene to Grenoble by bus/train on the changeover day
2012 dates: 30 June - 6 July, 4-10 Aug, 25-31 Aug
Guiding Ratio: 2:1
PRICE: £1,480
Price includes 6 days guiding, all local car transport (incl collection/drop-off at Bourg/Grenoble if required), 3 or 4 nights half-board hotel/pension accommodation in La Grave. Mountain food, hut nights and cablecars charges are extra (allow £150) £40 discount on bookings received before Dec 31st 2011
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MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT SPONSORSHIP:
For
2008 we are pleased to team up again with
Mountain Equipment - Britain's No.1 manufacturer
of gear for the serious mountaineer - in recommending
the right kit for your climbs with us. Mountain
Equipment supplied the jackets, clothing, rucksacks
and sleeping bags used on our successful first ascents
of Nilkanth West Ridge and The Godfather (VIII
on Beinn Bhan). For full details of their range
and a list of stockists go to their web-site: www.mountain-equipment.co.uk |
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