A productive week of instruction and ascents up to 4,000 metres altitude in the Arolla and Zermatt ranges. Designed for mountaineers and climbers seeking a firm skills grounding in their first season in the Alps, including snow, ice and rock techniques. Some prior experience of winter mountaineering and/or roped climbing is helpful, but we will guide you from first steps in all the essential Alpine skills. Itineraries are tailored to group experience and aspirations. Sample
programme:- "Taken out of our comfort zone in a week of continued learning. A real sense of improvement and achievement." Alison and John, 2010 2012 Dates: 7-13 July, 14-20 July, 21-27 July, 28 July-3 Aug, 4-10 Aug, 11-17 Aug, 18-24 Aug, 25-31 Aug PRICE: £950Oberland
Odyssey 6 days (2:1 ratio) 2012 Dates: 14-20 July, 11-17 Aug, 25-31 Aug PRICE: £1,320 Swiss
Giants - 12 days (3:1 ratio) 2012 Dates: 4-17 Aug PRICE: £1,860 Mont
Blanc Fortnight - 12
days - (3:1 ratio, 2:1 on M.Blanc) "What an achievement! From novices to Mont Blanc - what a difference a week makes." Marie, Mont Blanc course 2008 2012 Dates: 7-20 July, 18-31 Aug PRICE: £2,010 Intermediate
and Advanced Level Courses: These courses require greater prior experience of rock
and/or snow-ice climbing; they can follow
on from one of our Introductory level Alpine courses
or from a good experience of personal technical climbing on
home hills. There is a big step up in difficulty from easier
PD snow climbs to AD and D level mixed routes. Neat
efficient climbing technique on tricky and exposed terrain is
demanded. Full instruction is given
in the more advanced rope-work and technical skills required;
good general mountain fitness is essential.
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Intermediate Alpine-Swiss Big Three - South Ridge of Dent Blanche (climbers: Andy Dawson and Graeme Lennox) |
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For climbers who seek to climb more technical routes at AD standard, culminating in a big peak such as the Dent Blanche (4357m) or Zinal Rothorn (4221m), plus an instructional refresher in Alpine skills and a high-quality AD training climb around Arolla such as the traverse of L'Evêque or W. Ridge of the Dent de Tsalion. When conditions are suitable we may include a North Face snow and ice climb. Can follow on from an Intro course to make a fortnight; some previous rock or winter climbing experience essential.
2012 Dates: 7-13 July, 14-20 July, 21-27 July, 28 July-3 Aug, 4-10 Aug, 11-17 Aug, 18-24 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE: £1,250
"Managed to get three great routes into the week. Cheers for the best week of climbing I've ever done" Lear, Aug 2008
The
Swiss Big Three: Eiger - Matterhorn - Dent Blanche 12 days
The Eiger (3970m), Matterhorn (4478m)
and Dent Blanche (4357m) in a fortnight - Switzerland's
most famous summits; a must for aspiring
Alpinists who relish a big challenge. Prior technical
climbing experience to UK Severe/USA 5.5 on rock and grade II/III
in winter is required. The fortnight offers an initial training
route such as the Traverse of L'Eveque (3716m) (AD, III+) and
an instructional session to provide essential acclimatisation
before tackling the main objectives. 2:1
guiding ratio with 1:1 on the Matterhorn. We'll take
you rock climbing to beautiful cliffs in the Valais region on
any spare days. One of our most popular
courses so book early!
2012 Dates: 21 July - 3 Aug
PRICE: £2,540
Eiger - Matterhorn Double - 6 days - group ratio 1:1
Climb Europe's most famous peaks on a one week's budget and by their most exciting ridges - Mittellegi and South Ridge traverse of the Eiger, and the Hornli, Italian or Zmutt Ridge on the Matterhorn; with a 1:1 guiding ratio these can be achieved in good conditions; substantial recent climbing experience essential and a couple of days prior personal acclimatisation is recommended.
2012 Dates: 4-10 Aug, 25-31 Aug
PRICE: £2,050
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Grandes Courses - the Zinal Rothorn traverse |
Grandes
Courses
12 days - Ratio 2:1 A challenging programme coaching personal skills and then tackling some of the great ridge and face routes on the harder Swiss and Chamonix peaks at AD and D standard. For those with prior alpine experience or regular rock climbing and winter moutaineering (to UK Severe/VS and Scottish winter grade III) North Faces Fortnight: Climb classic snow and ice routes in the Swiss and Mont Blanc ranges such as the Pigne d'Arolla, Tour Ronde, Lenspitze, or Ober Gabelhorn N.Faces, Grand Combin, Nadelgrat or Rochefort traverse. Recommended for climbers with a preference for snow and ice routes. 2012 Dates: 7-20 July, 18-31 Aug Mixed and Rock: Climb classic routes in the Western Alps at AD and D standard with more emphasis on mixed and rock routes such as the Breithorn Traverse, Frontier Ridge of Mont Maudit, Dent du Géant and Rochefort Ridge, Dent Blanche, Weisshorn and Zinal Rothorn. Face routes such as Pigne d'Arolla N Face may also be climbed if conditions allow plus superb training routes on the Arolla peaks and rock climbs on some of Switzerland's finest crags Recommended for climbers who want to climb classic ridges to great peaks. 2012 Dates: 21 July-3 Aug, 4-17 Aug "Ober Gabelhorn....a stunningly exposed snow ridge..an awesome achievement in the conditions; yet again, an outstanding two weeks of climbing." Sandy PRICE: £2,370 Please be aware that there is substantial crossover between the North Faces and Mixed and Rock programmes according to conditions. Most Grandes Courses Fortnights achieve a mixture of snow and ice, mixed and pure rock routes |
GRANDES COURSES: PERFORMANCE ALPINISM
For experienced and regular Alpinists who have completed many successful ascents at AD and D standard these courses offer the chance to extend your experience and utilise your skills to accomplish major "grandes courses" at D+, TD and even ED1 standard. A 6 or 12 day itinerary is offered. We will provide a 1:1 guiding ratio for 3 days on a 6 day course and for 6 days on a two week course. The plan is to have 2 guides working with 2 clients to climb as a foursome on bigger and harder routes where mutual support and proximity will provide extra security. This is your chance to tackle great routes such as Douves Blanches Ridge (Arolla) (D), Rochefort-Grandes Jorasses Traverse (D), Kuffner Route, Mont Maudit (D), Schreckhorn South Pillar (D+), Diable Ridge of MBlanc de Tacul (D+), Innominata Ridge on Mont Blanc (D+), Weisshorn Traverse (D), East Face of the Grepon (D+), Cassin Route on the Piz Badile, N Face of the Dru, Route Major on Mont Blanc (TD) or even Croz and Walker Spurs on the Grandes Jorasses (ED1). All applicants will need to have regular rock climbing practice to HVS 5a/USA 5.8 level, winter climbing Scottish grade IV. You'll be climbing on these routes under the care of our most experienced guides.
"After 14 hours on the Schreckhorn South Pillar I reckoned we'd had a hard day out... Not a bit of it; the others staggered in after 19 hours on the traverse. That's performance!" Jonathan, 2010
2012 Dates: 6 days: 14-20 July, 11-17 Aug. 12 days: 21 July - 3 Aug, 18-31 Aug
PRICES: 6 days: £1,950; 12 days: £3,500
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Traverse of La Meije (3982m) (climbers: Jodie and Rob Magaw) |
Magnificent rock climbing on the S Face of the Aiguille Dibona |
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A 6 day feast of top quality alpinism at Difficile standard in the Ecrins Massif, based in La Grave, starting with wonderful rock routes on the Aiguille de Dibona (3131m) and culminating in the spectacular Traverse of La Meije (3982m), one of the finest expeditions of its kind in the Alps. travel to the Ecrins is simple with flights from London airports to Lyon, then quick bus transfers to Grenoble and Bourg d'Oisans, where car collection is available if required. The course will be directed by local IFMGA guide Anthony Franklin, who lives close to La Grave and has been a regular on our summer staff for the last 8 years. For valley nights the course uses comfortable pension accommodation at La Grave. The course offers a new adventure in a new area for experienced Alpine climbers who are confident on grade IV-V rock (UK VS standard). If you've already done some of the more difficult 4000m peaks in the Western Alps, then this itinerary will be of particular interest.
Sample itinerary:- Sat: Travel to Lyon, Grenoble and La Grave. Meet guides for course briefing. Sun: Drive to Les Etages and walk up to Soreiller Hut (2719m); afternoon rock climbing training.Mon: Ascent of Aig Dibona by South Face Direct (TD, V) or Boell Route (AD, IV); return to hut. Tues: Descend to valley and drive back to La Grave. Wed: Cablecar to 2400m, ascent of Enfetchores Buttress (AD, III), cross Breche de la Meije and traverse to Promontoire Hut (3082m). Thurs: Traverse of La Meije (D+) - a sustained and spectacular 12-14 hr day finishing at the Aigle Hut (3450m). Fri: Descend to La Grave Sat: Travel home. Alternative objectives are the traverse of the Aigs du Soreiller (3350m) and one of many climbs on Le Rateau (3809m) In event of unsettled weather the itinerary can be shifted to time the Meije traverse for the best weather.
The course can be combined with one of our one week courses based in Evolene with travel from Evolene to Grenoble by bus/train on the changeover day
2012 dates: 30 June - 6 July, 4-10 Aug, 25-31 Aug
Guiding Ratio: 2:1
PRICE: £1,480
Price includes 6 days guiding, all local car transport (incl collection/drop-off at Bourg/Grenoble if required), 3 or 4 nights half-board hotel/pension accommodation in La Grave. Mountain food, hut nights and cablecars charges are extra (allow £150) £40 discount on bookings received before Dec 31st 2011
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For 2008 we are pleased to team up again with Mountain Equipment - Britain's No.1 manufacturer of gear for the serious mountaineer - in recommending the right kit for your climbs with us. Mountain Equipment supplied the jackets, clothing, rucksacks and sleeping bags used on our successful first ascents of Nilkanth West Ridge and The Godfather (VIII on Beinn Bhan). For full details of their range and a list of stockists go to their web-site: www.mountain-equipment.co.uk |
Moran
Mountain Ltd Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX Tel/Fax 01520 722361 E-mail martin.moran@btinternet.com |
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