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HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS

Forthcoming trips:-  Nanda Devi Explorer  . . Spiti Mountain Voyage . . Satopanth

"This divine wilderness is the trekker's delight, the mountaineer's challenge, the photographer's paradise, Nature's own botanical garden and a sanctuary of variegated fauna" Dr Tom Longstaff


East Kamet Glacier to Mana Peak

Looking up the East Kamet Glacier to Mana Peak (7232m) - 2005 expedition to Kamet

 

We are Britain's only guiding business to offer climbs and treks exclusively in the magnificent Indian Himalaya. For the past 18 years we have expeditioned in the Garhwal, Kumaon, Himachal, Spiti and Ladakh regions, climbing peaks up to 7500m in altitude, pioneering new routes and making treks far off the beaten trails. Here are endless ranges offering exploration and challenge where few Western parties ever visit. Moran Mountain is proud that our expeditions and clients have made a significant contribution to the exploration of new peaks and passes and to the development of responsible adventure tourism in these areas. Each year we run three or four trips - each with a new and challenging itinerary. Many of our trip members have developed their mountain skills and experience with the help of our courses in Scotland and the Alps before moving to the grander arena of the Himalaya. Every trip is led by qualified British Mountain Guides or Mountain Instructors with long experience in the expedition field

Our mountaineering and trekking expertise is coupled with superb support services from Mr C.S.Pandey of Himalayan Run & Trek Pvt Ltd, our agent in India since 1992.

Trip Grades: We offer four levels of expedition. In some cases a trip may offer options or variations at two different levels, and can appeal to a wider range of experience and ambition. Approximate definitions are as follows:-

A: Mountain Treks and Easy Trekking Peaks : The treks may be long and cumulatively strenuous, but the terrain is generally well-graded and not usually exposed. Trails are mainly clear and easy to follow. Any peaks climbed are non-expedition peaks of a height under 6400m and of easier technical grade (Alpine F to PD or Scottish Grade I) with some glacier travel and snow climbing to 45-50 deg max angle. They can often be done in a day-climb from base to summit. These trips are typical of the drier regions north of the main Himalayan range such as Ladakh and Spiti. Trip members must have a good level of hill fitness and at minimum two or three prior training days on snow or ice terrain. Prior trekking experience to 4000m and above is advised.

B Adventure treks and Alpine Trekking Peaks: The trekking phases of these expeditions may be steeper and continuously rougher with exposed loose sections in gorges or on the crossing of passes. Climbs may be attempted on glaciated and snow-covered peaks from 5500m up to 6500m altitude with technical difficulties up to Alpine AD and serious glacier terrain, requiring at least one intermediate camp from base to summit. Technical difficulties will be in range Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II, with some scrambling of grade 2 to 3 standard. Members on these trips need robust fitness and experience of roped mountaineering in the UK and/or the Alps. Previous ascents to 4000m and above are advised, but not essential if you have a good background of home winter mountaineering.

C Standard Expedition Peaks: On these trips we attempt larger scale expedition peaks from 6000m to 7000m with at least two intermediate camps between base and summit, sustained and complex glacier travel, the possibility of short sections of fixed rope and techincal difficulties of Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II/III plus rock climbing of Diff/VDiff standard (UIAA II and III). The trips will generally be of 4 weeks duration. Some itineraries may include attempts on new peaks or routes. Members must have previous Alpine ascents to 4000m and above plus rock climbing and snow and ice mountaineering experience.

D Higher Expedition Mountains and Technical Climbs: Level D trips fall into two types: a) attempts on peaks above 7000m requiring three or more intermediate camps and a four to six week duration. Although technical difficulties may be modest (Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II), all members must have prior altitude experience above 4000m on Alpine peaks (and preferably higher), together with robust mountain fitness, mental strength and endurance. b) technical climbs on lower mountains of Alpine D to TD in difficulty with snow and ice terrain to 60 deg or more (Scottish grade III/IV) and rock to grade Severe/Very Severe (UIAA IV to V). These climbs may involve exposed bivouacs, abseil descents and sections of jumaring. They require extensive prior experience in technical mountaineering, including technical Alpine ascents at 3500m or above.

In 2010 we are inviting you to join more exciting trips. Follow the links for full details and itineraries:

NANDA DEVI EXPLORER 24 days 15th May - 6th June 2010 An ascent of 5922m Bauljuri, crossing of 5312m Traill's Pass and a superb through trek of the beautiful Pindar, Lawan and Gori Ganga valleys; an ideal first Himalayan trip for mountaineers with some previous snow experience. Grade B

SPITI MOUNTAIN VOYAGE: 23 days: 24th July - 16th Aug 2010: a magnificent 150km trek from Spiti to Ladakh crossing 5000m passes, visiting the fabled Tso Moriri lake and climbing a 6000m peak en-route - an ideal trip to "cut your teeth" at high altitude and to enjoy the dramatic mountain landscapes of the Indian Himalaya - for fit adventurous trekkers with some previous experience on snow terrain Grade A

SATOPANTH: 28 days; 1st - 29th Sept 2010: One of India's iconic and most-climbed 7000m peaks in the heart of the Gangotri ranges of Garhwal Himalaya; for strong climbers with altitude experience Grade C/D

Our Achievements on past expeditions have included:-

  • First ascent of virgin peak Changuch (6322m) in Nanda Devi range (Alpine D) and crossing of the remote Traill's Pass in 2009
  • Ascent of new route up W Face of Gangsthang (6162m) (Alpine D-) in Lahaul Himalaya in 2007
  • 2 6000m peaks and classic 120km Markha valley trek completed by 11 clients on our 2005 and 2006 Ladakh trips
  • a bold attempt on 7756m Kamet in 2005 reaching within 100m of the summit
  • second ascent of the remote Chiring We (6559m) near the Tibetan border by 9 members in Sept 2004
  • first-ever climbing exploration of the Adi Kailash massif in 2002, 2004 and 2006 with first ascents of Ishan Parbat (6150m), Little Kailash (5950m) and Rajula (The Maiden) (5850m) and crossings of two high passes
  • three technical new rock routes on the Satling Spires in Spring 2002
  • new route pioneered on South Face of 6309m Nanda Ghunti in Spring 2001; seven members make the summit
  • 1st ascent of the magnificent West Ridge of 6596m Nilkanth (Alpine TD), a virgin 5919m summit and a new pass on our Spring 2000 expedition
  • 8 out of 10 clients reach the summit of 6387m Kalanag on our 1999 Bandarpunch expedition
  • the first ascent of the South Face of Nanda Kot (6,861 m) (Alpine D+) in 1995 - a major pioneering effort
  • the 3rd ascent (and first in alpine-style) of the pin-sharp Panwali Dwar (6,663 m) in the Nanda Devi range

summit climb to Chiring We

Starting the summit climb to Chiring We (6559m) - 2004 expedition

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Moran Mountain Ltd
Park Cottage - Achintee - Strathcarron - Ross-shire - IV54 8YX
Tel/Fax 01520 722361    E-mail martin.moran@btinternet.com

Director: Martin Moran
IFMGA and BMG Guide




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