A:
Mountain Treks and Easy Trekking Peaks : The
treks may be long and cumulatively strenuous, but the terrain
is generally well-graded and not usually exposed. Trails
are mainly clear and easy to follow. Any peaks climbed are
non-expedition peaks of a height under 6400m and of easier
technical grade (Alpine F to PD or Scottish Grade I) with
some glacier travel and snow climbing to 45-50 deg max angle.
They can often be done in a day-climb from base to summit.
These trips are typical of the drier regions north of the
main Himalayan range such as Ladakh and Spiti. Trip members
must have a good level of hill fitness and at minimum two
or three prior training days on snow or ice terrain.
Prior trekking experience to 4000m and above is advised.
B
Adventure treks and Alpine Trekking Peaks: The
trekking phases of these expeditions may be steeper and
continuously rougher with exposed loose sections in gorges
or on the crossing of passes. Climbs may be attempted on
glaciated and snow-covered peaks from 5500m up to 6500m
altitude with technical difficulties up to Alpine AD and
serious glacier terrain, requiring at least one intermediate
camp from base to summit. Technical difficulties will be
in range Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II, with some scrambling
of grade 2 to 3 standard. Members on these trips need robust
fitness and experience of roped mountaineering in the UK
and/or the Alps. Previous
ascents to 4000m
and above are advised, but not essential if you have a good
background of home winter mountaineering.
C
Standard Expedition Peaks: On these
trips we attempt larger scale expedition peaks from 6000m
to 7000m with at least two intermediate camps between base
and summit, sustained and complex glacier travel, the possibility
of short sections of fixed rope and techincal difficulties
of Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II/III plus rock climbing
of Diff/VDiff standard (UIAA II and III). The trips will
generally be of 4 weeks duration. Some itineraries may include
attempts on new peaks or routes. Members must have previous
Alpine ascents to 4000m and above plus rock climbing and
snow and ice mountaineering experience.
D
Higher Expedition Mountains and Technical Climbs: Level
D trips fall into two types: a) attempts on peaks above
7000m requiring three or more intermediate camps and a four
to six week duration. Although technical difficulties may
be modest (Alpine PD to AD, Scottish grade II), all members
must have prior altitude experience above 4000m on Alpine
peaks (and preferably higher), together with robust mountain
fitness, mental strength and endurance. b) technical climbs
on lower mountains of Alpine D to TD in difficulty with
snow and ice terrain to 60 deg or more (Scottish grade III/IV)
and rock to grade Severe/Very Severe (UIAA IV to V). These
climbs may involve exposed bivouacs, abseil descents and
sections of jumaring. They require extensive prior experience
in technical mountaineering, including technical Alpine
ascents at 3500m or above.
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Expedition Climbing with Moran Mountain: Style, Ethics and Responsibilities: Our Himalayan expeditions run with different expectations and demands on clients to the normal practices of guided climbs in Scotland and the Alps. All members of our trips must be aware and prepared for these, in particular:-
- Self-reliance and initiative are required from all members in organisation of personal kit, setting up camps and cooking; some carrying of communal kit is expected within the capacities of individual members
- Independence: Members are sometimes required to move between lower camps independently and form their own rope on glacial terrain; so must be competent in route-finding, route-memorisation and glacier ropework, especially crevasse rescue skills. Ropework and rescue skills will be coached during a trip and our leaders will only entrust such responsibilities to those members with adequate experience and competence in the skills.
- Climbing ratios are not fixed. Circumstances on expeditions are unpredictable. There is often a natural wastage in the number of clients who are fit for a summit attempt. Conversely, a guide may become sick and unable to climb. Trip leaders will deal with such eventualities in a fair and logical manner. Suitably experienced members may be asked if they want to form their own rope, following the guide's rope and using the guide's belays; this can be challenging and rewarding to clients who have the necessary ability. On occasion a guide may do a route twice in order to ensure that all fit members are able to achieve a summit on a safe ratio. In 20 years of running these expeditions we have never been forced to deny a fit and able member a summit attempt because of excessive ratios.
- Fixed Ropes: Our expeditions climb largely in alpine-style, with minimum use of fixed ropes. We believe wholesale fixed rope climbing to be contrary to the style and ideals of classical mountaineering, potentially dangerous and detrimental to the environment. Where any fixed roping is necessary we will usually place all rope and anchors ourselves and remove them at the end of the trip. If old fixed ropes are used the members of the team will additionally be protected by a climbing rope linked to the leader and attached to belays, both in ascent and descent. If any use of fixed ropes is anticipated on a trip members will be advised to learn and practice the techniques of jumaring and abseiling (this requires several sessions), and instruction will be given at the pre-trip meet or early in the expedition.
- Physiological demands and psychological stress. High-altitude trekking and climbing places abnormal physiological demands on the body and this causes occasional psychological stress with raised emotions, lapses of concentration and more radical reaction in case of dispute or disappointment. Our leaders have the experience to understand and compensate in these situations, particularly in safeguarding all members. For their part clients must themselves realise that judgement - both emotional and practical - can be impaired, and must exercise restraint and compassion when dealing with stressful situations, for example when handling the inevitable imbalances in fitness, work-rate and technical ability within the team.
- Ethics, Teamwork and Personal Reward. At Moran Mountain we try to foster values of aesthetic appreciation of the mountains, teamwork, co-operation, and personal development over any wider public rewards that might accrue from success, nice though these may be. Indeed, one reason that we choose unusual or esoteric objectives is to deter any self-centred egotism in our team members. Even if we achieve a 1st ascent all members must appreciate that any public reward is fleeting and ephemeral. Whether or not ultimate success is gained on a peak or trek we want all our clients to return feeling that they have achieved deeper personal gains. Often the greatest personal achievement on an expedition lies in coming to terms with disappointment without blame or rancour. In the words of Mallory: "Have
we vanquished an enemy? None but ourselves. Have we gained
success? That word means nothing here...."
In
2012 we are inviting
you to join more exciting trips. Follow the links for full
details and itineraries:
HIMACHAL PIONEER 25 days: 13th Sept - 7th Oct 2012 Peaks of the Tharang Nala - a 6000m range, with virgin peaks and easy access in a delectable region of the Indian Himalaya. Price: £3,760 Grade B/C :
Our
Achievements on past expeditions have included:-